Historical anecdotes always fascinates me and if it is about old Kolkata, then it's magical. I can listen to these old stories for hours. Surprisingly, on Maha-Ostomi I had an unique chance to visit some of those very traditional old pujas with WB tourism. The tour was fantastic. It was like going back to those old time and revisit our old Kolkata. There are few famous house-puja in North Kolkata (Uttor Kolkata) that are still carrying that old traditional style puja. They are also known as "Bonedi barir sabeki puja" (traditional house puja). We started the tour around 8am and finished around 1pm.
First we visited Rani Rashmoni's house at Janbazar (central Kolkata). It was started around 1780. Padmamoni Dasi and her husband Rajchandra Das were the main organizers. This puja was sanctified by Ramakrishna. He performed this puja in special "Sakhibesh" attire. Bhog is cooked with holy Ganga water.
After that we went to Chandra bari. Bharat Chandra, the head of this family, came to Kolkata from Nadia in 1781 to avoid "Borgi invasion". "Ganesh Chandra Avenue" was named after Ganesh Chandra who was one of this family members. Goddess Durga is decorated with "Daker Saaj" and it is an "Ekchala" thakur. The "Thakurdalan" was really gorgeous.
Chattubabu-Latubabu's house was next. This puja was started in 1780. Ramdulal Deb, ancestor of two famous Babus - Ashutosh Deb (Chattubabu) and Pramath Nath Deb (Latubabu) started this puja.
As a tradition, a "Neelkantha" bird (a model bird was kept inside) was set free on the day of immersion.
Next was Khelat Ghosh's house. It is one of the important "Bonedi bari"-r pujos. Many legendary musician came here and performed at this place including Ravishankar. This puja is 166 years old. The "Thakurdalan" is one of the largest of such structures in Kolkata.
Finally we arrived at "Shovabazar Rajbari". Raja Nabakrishna Deb started this puja in 1757 to commemorate the victory in the battle of Plassey by Lord Clive. This puja is performed according to the "Brihadnandikeshwar Puran". "Daker Saaj" was totally awesome. This "Rajbati" organizes two different puja at two different addresses, almost next to each other. We were given coupon for "Bhog" here. What a delicious lunch to end our trip :). The "Bhog" consists of - luchi, chholar daal, dhoka, pulao, paneer curry, chatni, papad, laddu and jilebi :) ... yessss a total yummy meal !!!
This was an amazing experience. Especially during Durga Puja, visiting those old "bari"s in Kolkata undoubtedly added a special showcase in my memory.
Here is the album: Flickr Album
First we visited Rani Rashmoni's house at Janbazar (central Kolkata). It was started around 1780. Padmamoni Dasi and her husband Rajchandra Das were the main organizers. This puja was sanctified by Ramakrishna. He performed this puja in special "Sakhibesh" attire. Bhog is cooked with holy Ganga water.
After that we went to Chandra bari. Bharat Chandra, the head of this family, came to Kolkata from Nadia in 1781 to avoid "Borgi invasion". "Ganesh Chandra Avenue" was named after Ganesh Chandra who was one of this family members. Goddess Durga is decorated with "Daker Saaj" and it is an "Ekchala" thakur. The "Thakurdalan" was really gorgeous.
Chattubabu-Latubabu's house was next. This puja was started in 1780. Ramdulal Deb, ancestor of two famous Babus - Ashutosh Deb (Chattubabu) and Pramath Nath Deb (Latubabu) started this puja.
As a tradition, a "Neelkantha" bird (a model bird was kept inside) was set free on the day of immersion.
Next was Khelat Ghosh's house. It is one of the important "Bonedi bari"-r pujos. Many legendary musician came here and performed at this place including Ravishankar. This puja is 166 years old. The "Thakurdalan" is one of the largest of such structures in Kolkata.
Finally we arrived at "Shovabazar Rajbari". Raja Nabakrishna Deb started this puja in 1757 to commemorate the victory in the battle of Plassey by Lord Clive. This puja is performed according to the "Brihadnandikeshwar Puran". "Daker Saaj" was totally awesome. This "Rajbati" organizes two different puja at two different addresses, almost next to each other. We were given coupon for "Bhog" here. What a delicious lunch to end our trip :). The "Bhog" consists of - luchi, chholar daal, dhoka, pulao, paneer curry, chatni, papad, laddu and jilebi :) ... yessss a total yummy meal !!!
This was an amazing experience. Especially during Durga Puja, visiting those old "bari"s in Kolkata undoubtedly added a special showcase in my memory.
Here is the album: Flickr Album
very well written:) I just explained few of the Bengali words:)
ReplyDeleteRamakrishna: A prominent saint and philosopher of nineteenth century who preached universality of religion.
Sakhibesh: In earlier days male devotees often used to wear a dress (besh) like a girl (sakhi), to strengthen their prayerful feelings while engaging in devotional practice.
Borgi Invasion: Borgi is a bengali word from Marathi word Bargir which meant Horsemen. During 1741-1751 a group of maratha people who were provided with horses and arms by the Maratha Empire, used to plunder and loot the rich countryside of Western part of Bengal every year.
Daker Saaj: After the battle of Plassey, traditional house durga pujas were initiated. Durga protima is decorated in many ways. All are unique art forms. But one of the special art form is the “daker saaj” where the protima was decorated with silver foil. During that time these silver foils were imported from Germany by post. Bengali word for “post” is “dak” and thus the decoration got its name “daker saaj”.
Ekchala: It means “under one roof” in bengali. It’s an oval structure for supporting all the five images – Maa Durga in the center riding her lion with shiva painted above. To her left is Saraswati with her goose, standing beside her brother Karthik riding his peacock, to her right side stands Lakhhi, with her owl and Ganesh with his mouse.
Thakurdalan: Coutyard (dalan) that houses the Thakur (gods/goddesses).
Neelkantha bird: Indian roller with a blue (neel) throat (kantha). Earlier days during the immersion of devi Durga in the Ganges there was a ritual to free a Neelkantha bird, who carried the massage to Shiva that Maa Durga has started the journey towards Kailash in the Himalayas.
Rajbari and Rajbati: In bengali Raj means king and bari/bati means house.
Brihadnandikeshwar Puran: Vedic texts which typically contained details and methods to perform durga puja narrated by Nandikeshwar, a great sage.
Thank you for your detailed explanation. I hope that readers will find it very useful. Many Thanks didi :)
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